Ratio Change

After the discovery of the short diff. ratio in my last post it’s been all hands to the pump to change to the standard 3.86:1 ratio before the Bugatti Rally in South Australia, only tempered by the record heat in the shed this month.

Removing the rear axle on the Bug requires detachment the body tray with it’s attendant 40 or so special Bugatti 5mm body screws.  While I was at it I removed the rear body (Pointy Bit) exposing the fuel tank and wiring that I had not been able to get access to previously. The new found access has provided me with the opportunity for a new found list of things to do.

With most vintage cars when something falls off it ends up on the road and lost, so out of mind.  However with the Bugatti it falls into the body tray and scuttles into some inaccessible nook or cranny only to be found when the tray is removed, needless to say there was about half a cup (photo below) of nuts, bolts, washers, a drill bit, screw driver, split pins whole and sheared, coins, cable ties again whole and sheared. No longer out of sight and as I cannot see where any of them go, they will remain out of mind.

When the new crown-wheel and pinion arrived it was surprisingly a spiral bevel so hopefully if I get the back lash right it will be quiet so should be able to amortise cost over it’s expected life versus expenditure on disposable ear plugs (which means you can justify just about anything if you try hard enough)

After waiting six days for the local engineering supplies to tell me the shim washers needed for the back lash adjustment they were not available.  I did the usual and trawled the Internet and found http://www.precisionshims.com.au/a/Precision-Shims-Australia very nice people and they can make any type of shim you want.  My needs were in stock and hopefully now in the post.(arrived next day)

The other job on the go is to replace the current (as in present) alternator which is large and takes up most of the space under my seat with a small 14A permanent magnet one from a Kubota tractor these really are god’s gift to old cars particularly those stricken with Lucas electrics.

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How to find your Diff ratio with a GPS

From the previous post you may have noticed the dead bike speedo.   I have ordered a replacement VDO A4 and while on the website a Garmin GPS based bike speedo as well, thinking the VDO can just work as an odometer as its always on whereas the GPS one can be mounted on the steering wheel  where it can be seen but needs to be charged before use and is more likely stolen so may only be available intermittently.

I will just backup a bit.  The VDO speedo has a wire to a sensor that on a bike would be mounted on the front forks so it can sense a magnet wizzing past attached to the spokes therefore counting wheel revs, you tell it what the wheel circumference is and it works out how fast you are going. So far so good.

To cut a long story short mounting it like on a bike was not going to work so I stuck the magnet on the tail shaft flange instead.   So with a wheel circumference of 2360mm and a diff ratio of about  4:1 the “virtual” wheel diameter would be 2360/4=590mm, most bike speedos do not go below 1000mm however the VDO does so all should be good.

Took the car out for a test with both speedos and the VDO reads fast so after many stops each time lowering the circumference figure in the speedo eventually I have accuracy at 525mm, so a diff ratio of 2360/525=4.5:1. I have now gone through the paper work for the car and sure enough it has a 12/54 ratio of you guessed it 4.5:1 the usual ratio for a Type 37 is 14/54 or 3.86:1.

So brings me to the Tachometer, on the Bug it runs from a pulley on the end of the camshaft via a flat belt to another pulley .  At 100kph it should be indicating about 3200rpm with my new found gearing… however at 3000 I was passing everyone.  I had reservations about the engine’s ability to rev I now realise I should have had reservations about the Tacho’s ability to indicate those revs.

The wheels.  Luckily with the hub fitment problems, I have not ordered the wheels, imagine how much it would rev with smaller wheels on the back.  So all this maths has saved me money, only two wheels and two tyres needed for the T37 Hotrod.

Quite unrelated to any of the above we went to Noojee for lunch today going the long and interesting way through some of the best country in Victoria.  On the way back I had the opportunity to drive Des Dillon’s Alfonso Hispano Suiza which is sans just about any bodywork so goes quite unlike most Edwardian cars that is to say this one goes, stops and handles.  If I had a garage that would only fit one car, this would have to be it.

 

Win some lose some

Hot one today so slothful enterprises only.

Received in the mail today a wheel centre for the Bug from Peter from Richards Bros Cardiff, Wales.  Peter was worried that the wire wheels I have ordered may not fit so decided to send out a centre for a trial fit and he was half right, the fronts are OK the rears are too tight a fit on my splines.  So I could:

  1. Put the new 2.5″ (narrow) wheels on the front and leave to old 4″ (fatties) on the back for the hotrod look.
  2. Send the rear splines to Richards Bros. to get machined to fit the wheels.
  3.  Don’t do anything for now and save up for some alloy blade wheels?  Bugatti’s do look good with those wheels…….

While on the Bugatti, I took it out on a local club  “Cento Miglia” Economy Run and achieved 30MPG which is exactly what Ettore said it would do, very prescient of him.  Also I noticed that my VDO Car/Bike speedo seemed to be missing, I immediately thought this was some sort Franco/German problem, however really it appeared to coincide with a grinding- rubbing noise, unfortunately it had fallen into a gap between the seat and the alternator pulley guard, photo attached.

The Sizaire now has modern seals in the rear hubs after I discovered the RH housing was a recent fabrication so it did not seem so bad machining the centre out to put seals in.  I have also welded a replacement bracket on the RHS brakes, hopefully a better weld than the Blu-tack previously applied. The bracket is not absolutely necessary for retardation ….. in a forward direction anyway.

Lastly sorry about all the arrows and captions in the photos as I’ve just discovered the “Skitch”  app on my iphone.
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